I’m Going To Japan

I’m heading to Japan in early September, thanks to the very gracious hospitality of friends of mine who are living just outside of Tokyo that will make the trip less financially impossible. I’ve been really looking forward to going to Japan for years; the Japanese culture has had a hold on me since I was 14 and I’m really looking forward to scratching the itch that has developed.

I’ve already been fortunate enough to get some great advice from friends who’ve visited the region before on business and for vacation, but I have something of a broad and diverse readership here with their own impressions of the country, so I thought I’d open the floor. What should I see? Where should I go? In particular, can you recommend any great vegetarian cuisine for my husband who is afraid of fish? If you could list a few things that I shouldn’t miss in the comments section? That’d be great.

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A little background: We’re going to be spending most of our time in the Tokyo area, with quick trips to Osaka, Nara, and Kyoto on this trip. Obviously I’m interested in manga (and to a lesser extent, anime), but other cultural happenings or unique experiences would be great too. We already plan to hit the larger interesting neighborhoods like Akihabara, Harajuku, Shinjuku, Roppongi (and the ridiculous Roppongi Hills complex), Ginza, etc., but we’re looking for the wonderful things within those neighborhoods that shouldn’t be missed.

Also, if you’re in Japan and want to meet up for an Asahi, let me know and we can try to work something out.

All suggestions will be read and appreciated.

Best,

– Christopher

22 Replies to “I’m Going To Japan”

  1. My only advice is to make the most of it! My roommate in college traveled there on a grant to study manga, and just worked overtime meeting everyone he could in the art form. He says they were all extraordinarily gracious for the interest and very forthcoming. A guy with your connections should have a blast.

    Jealous!
    Sean

  2. I have never been to Japan, although I do like some of thier comics.

    There is a Studio Ghibli Museum in Tokyo that I have always wanted to see, although that page makes absolutely no sense to me. This page explains (in helpful english) how to get tickets if you live in Canada.

    More importantly, there is a OSAMU TEZUKA MUSEUM in Takarazuka. I have no idea where this is in relation to anywhere else in Japan, but Wikipedia says it is a ‘bedroom community’ for Osaka, so I would imagine near there?

    It has a life-size Phoenix statue! Nature Made Me Draw The Manga.

  3. If you want to go to the Studio Ghibli museum Hugh Stewart mentions above, get your tickets now basically– don’t wait until you get to Tokyo. It’s basically booked year round, so you can’t just show up. There’s a whole complicated system involving buses.

    Do you read Jean Snow’s blog? Or Gridskipper? Those are what I consulted the last time I went there– I was only there for a very brief time, but both were extremely helpful in finding neat stuff, food, etc.

    I remember not liking Roppongi, but I went down this street that’s all about loud people *aggressively* soliciting foreigners to come into these expat-oriented clubs. I’m not sure if I got a distorted picture of the area (though I’ve heard from friends who had the same experience), but… I’m sure there’s a cool part of it that I walked past, though.

    But it’s amazing. It’s what you hope it’s going to be. Have a great time.

  4. Sean- Thanks 🙂

    Hugh- The Ghibli Museum is definitely on my list, and I’ve already contacted the people in Toronto that sell the vouchers. I didn’t know about the Tezuka Manga Museum though, and that got added to the list and I am VERY EXCITED, so this has already worked. Thanks so much for that one. I never manaed to make it down to the Tezuka manga exhibit in SF, so I guess going to see the art in Japan is just as good ;).

    Tina- That’s a great link and I forwarded it to the Hubby, hope he appreciates it.

    Abhay- I’m really not looking forward to Roppongi in general, but that mall sounds crazy and it’s near to a few other things on our list. I’ll make sure to stay away from the aggro street vendors.

    I’m going to go check out Jean Snow’s blog and Gridskipper now. Thanks man. 🙂

  5. If you’re so inclined, I’d try out the cafe at the Ghibli Museum in Mitaka while you’re there. The food was very tasty, and I believe all natural/organic. The cafe stays open an hour later than the museum, so it makes a good last stop. I don’t remember too much about vegetarian entrees (I think there were a few fruit sandwiches and things like that for the summer), but they have nice cakes also. Also, there’s a nice English book about the museum in the bookstore (separate from the gift shop) for 500 yen. Oh, and if you arrive too late in the day, you CAN miss the last showing of the Ghibli-Museum-only films they show (one free with your admission). I think we almost missed the last one and we arrived around 4pm.

    And I don’t know if you at all like theme parks, but Tokyo DisneySea (right next to Tokyo DisneyLand)was a lot of fun and has a lot of attractions America doesn’t. It’s small enough to stroll around for a day and do everything. When I was there about 2 weeks ago, it wasn’t crowded at all and it didn’t take more than 30 minutes to ride anything. Also, it was cooler than the rest of Tokyo since the ocean was nearby and provided a nice breeze. I think school just started again in Tokyo too, so maybe there won’t be as many youngins. I think it’s always a popular date spot though. It was a really relaxing way to end my trip there (plus, animatronic Indiana Jones!). However, if you guys are at all large, the seats on the rides can be a bit tight to get in and out of, even for me and my sis (2 petite girls), and there were some too-tall height restrictions.

    Also, while we were in Shibuya, one of my favorite things was visiting the Mandarake store where they sell a lot of vintage/used manga/toys/geek stuff. Lots of older stuff, found some art books I never thought I’d see for a good price. It’s not bad to hit up a Kinokuniya there either.

  6. Also, on a less cultural note, if you’re looking to shop for some, ‘mature’ manga material, you must take the trip to Rainbow World bookstore on Hanazono St [in the “Shinjuku block no.2”]. I know that ‘Books Rose’ is supposed to be legend, but I thought it had way too many mags and videos, and not enough manga. :/ Lumiere [about 3 blocks away from Rainbow World, is another great place [they actually own the website for ‘Rainbow Shoppers’ and are very ‘foreign friendly.’

    Manhouse has a shopping list of most of the stores here: https://www.mannhouse.com/E/shoplist_c.html

    If you’re looking straight up ‘yaoi’ [pardon the poor pun], the best place still seems to be Mandarake.

  7. If you’re hitting Kyoto, I definitely recommend taking a walk around the Fushimi Inari shrine, preferably in the morning. It’s not included as a “must-see” in a lot of guidebooks but it’s just gorgeous. (You’d recognize it from the movie version of Memoirs of a Geisha.) Other than that, guidebooks will list most of everything you should see out there.

    In Tokyo, well, I’d recommend making a trip to the Yasukuni Shrine and associated Yashukan museum, just ’cause it’s so, well, weird.

    If you can (and can manage to sit through a game) try to grab baseball tickets. The crowds at Japanese baseball games are something else.

  8. The fashion- and design- conscious individual would do well to spend some time at a MUJI outlet. http://www.muji.net/

    From the wikipedia entry: “MUJI is distinguished by its design minimalism, emphasis on recycling, avoidance of waste in production and packaging, and no-logo policy. Products range from pens, notebooks, and clothing for men and women to food items and major kitchen appliances.”

  9. Also, in the Kyoto train station there is a temporary “Tezuka World” set up till the 31st of August. It has a store, small theater, and mini manga reading area.

    Kyoto also has an International Manga Museum which is essentially a big manga library with a few exhibits and sometimes workshops. We found it on the English map at the tourist information center in the train station.

    Kiyomizu-Dera and Nanzen-ji (famous for its Zen rock gardens) are some very popular and lovely temples to visit.

  10. Chris,

    Bryan Munn has referred me to you – here is the note I sent to HIM …

    My name is Rob Asselstine and you don‚t know me. I live in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada. I am a Composer/Producer looking to connect with a local person capable of drawing comic-book style characters in the style of things like the classic DC comics (Batman, Superman in particular), Spawn, Spiderman, etc. I‚ll try to make a long story short, I am producing a new dark Rock Musical and would like to find a wrist who can help me bring my characters to life as I envision them – this will help greatly in developing my costume design and overall vision for the production. I’d like to end up with finished art and have several reference samples that I am using as boiler-plate materials. I understand that you are connected in this genre through your blog site and may perhaps be able to help. The reason for the “local” side is clearly to allow me frequent contact with the prospective artist. This will be a paying gig. I would also consider someone in Niagara Falls since I will be spending a fair amount of time there over September.

    If you could let me know your thoughts ASAP, I‚d really appreciate it. I am currently in Seattle but will be home Monday morning ˆ reachable by e-mail in the meantime.

    Thanks in advance ˆ I‚ll look forward to hearing from you.

    Rob


    Rob Asselstine
    RGAMedia
    T: 00.1.519.577.0162
    E: rga@rgaproductions.com
    W: http://www.rgaproductions.com
    SKYPE NAME: rgaproductions

  11. Hello,
    I live in Tokyo myself and am in the liquor industry so know a thing or two about the restaurant scene. Here are a few recommendation.
    For the best vegetarian meal you will ever have (shoujin Ryouri) go to:
    Daigo (醍醐), 2-3-1 Atago (nearest station Onarimon), tel. 3431-0811
    Pricey but incredible.
    You can also go to some good soba noodle shops. No fish there. One of my favorites is the one in Azabu Juban, right off of Roppongi Hills; HORII
    Gonpachi in Nishi Azabu or Shibuya has pretty much anything and is very affordable.
    And, honestly, you need to leave your husband go have some salad by myself and try some sushi. It’s just better in Japan…
    Let me know if you need more. As I said, I’ve been here for 8 years now so if I can be of assistance, let me know.
    Regards

  12. I just asked Eric but if he can’t find them I may impose on you bring back some vending machine panties for Joanna, Why? Because such a thing exists

    As for where to go… if it were me i’d hit up temples and any sort of traditional museum, plus the fashion district, and maybe see how far up mt fugi you can make it [heh. walking man]

  13. Hi Chris,

    I have to agree with many of the suggestions that have already been made.
    Baseball was great, I recommend an outdoor night game at Meiji Jingu Stadium (not the Tokyo Dome). You have to sit in the outfield though to really enjoy it.
    Nikko is a great day trip from Tokyo. If you go, after seeing the shrines, take the local bus up to the lookout for a spectacular vista (and cable car).
    Are you staying overnight in the Kyoto area? It will make it a lot easier to see Nara, Osaka and Takarazuka. All of which are about an hour by train from Kyoto.
    In Kyoto you should try lunch at Okutan (excellent vegetarian tofu set meal). There are also some buddhist temples that serve amazing vegetarian meals. You should also try Uji-Kintoki (a green tea flavored shaved ice dessert) at one of the sweet shops near the temples.
    My favorite breakfasts were the fresh Japanese Pastries usually available right around every train station along with cold coffee from the all-powerful vending machines.
    The Tezuka museum is fun and will only take a morning allowing you to get back to Osaka or Kyoto. If you’re very short on time I can try to tell you what I thought the highlights were and what can be missed.

  14. YEAH! So many of these suggestions are fantastic, thanks so much! Our trip is going to be great (and busy!).

    I’ll try and post an itinerary when I get it formatted into something useful.

    Best,

    – Chris

  15. No one’s mentioned an Onsen!? Go do a japanese Ryokan/onsen combo. It’s awesome. Though, you’ll have to figure out the dietary considerations for it. The traditional dishes they serve aren’t really vegetarian… Also, if you can, go with peeps you know, so they can teach you about etiquette in a bath house and so you don’t faux pas.

  16. Hi Chris,

    I know I`m late to post here, so though its likely you`ve already got everything planned out, I`ll toss in my 2 cents. Nikko should not be missed (unless maybe you’re hitting up Nara while in Kansai). Takoyaki on Dotonbori in Osaka is one of the essential food experiences, as is 5am sushi in Tsukiji(largest fish market in the world, employing over 35,000). Also, the road up to Kiyomizu Temple is recommended if you wanna get a proper feel for the street angles and crowds.

    As for geekdom, if you mean the Mandarake in Nakano, then you’re all set. That is the crustiest castle of geek out there, with nearly 4 floors of dedicated figure, comic, animation cel, and even script shops. The best though, is the indy bookstore on the top floor in the corner, they have tons of indy stuff of the type you seem to prefer.
    …Beyond that, be sure to hop into a BookOff or two just to get the proper mass consumer experience. The Shibuya one’s always got great selection, but the more minor stations tend to have better prices.

    anyway, if you wanna grab a brew at any point, give a holler.

    (^。^)v

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